2006 Exige S

This is where we proud owners can upload information and pictures of our pride-and-joys (their Exige that is..)
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Fonzey
Posts: 1188
Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2018 12:17 am

Yeah it's unusual - I know these discs get used fair harsher than what I treat them so can only assume it was a manufacturing defect - or perhaps it's a stress crack from being dropped/mishandled at some point in its lifetime.
Lankan
Posts: 118
Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2020 10:40 pm

Looks like your Exige handles very well, and the gear change appears effortless. :thumbup:

Great post about your track day too, and seems like the weather was just perfect.

Never seen a disc crack like that - hairline cracks, yes. Guess they have been heat-cycled a few times?
2010 Exige S RGB #138
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Fonzey
Posts: 1188
Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2018 12:17 am

Lankan wrote: Fri Oct 02, 2020 9:21 pm Looks like your Exige handles very well, and the gear change appears effortless. :thumbup:

Great post about your track day too, and seems like the weather was just perfect.

Never seen a disc crack like that - hairline cracks, yes. Guess they have been heat-cycled a few times?
Yes handling is getting close, but still feel I can tweak some improvement into it. Hopefully soon I start getting a bit more proactive during a trackday with my changes rather than making small iterative changes between trackdays. Should help me achieve what I'm looking for much quicker!

I really can't complain about the gear change on this car. I've owned 2x S2's and driven loads and I honestly feel mine is the best I've experienced. Sorry for rubbing it in :lol: But I think there's a real argument to say that a properly adjusted setup will be satisfactory rather than chucking hardware at it.... unless of course mine has had a cable upgrade in the past without me knowing about it.... doesn't seem likely based on the history of the car. (KeEP iT oriGInAL)

Hopefully I don't cock it up when I remove the gearbox!

The discs have had a reasonably hard 18 months of life, 10-12 trackdays and a few different sets of pads but I still wouldn't expect such a failure. People race on these same discs, I know people who sprint on them and do far more trackdays than I do... just one of those things I guess.
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Fonzey
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Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2018 12:17 am

It was pretty much a three way tie for brake pads between the following:

- Carbone Lorriane RC6
- Performance Friction 08
- Carbotech XP8

All get similar reviews of perhaps being a hair ahead of the Pagid RS14 for ultimate performance, but realistically there's probably nowt' in it.

After the disc crack discovery I should probably be fair to RS14 and give them another chance, but the only way to really form an opinion is to try a bit of everything... so that's what I'll do, starting with the Carbotechs:

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They're shiny, so points for that straight away. I went for the XP8's first because although I received the least feedback on these, it was universally good. With the CL's and the PF's it was a case of "they're excellent BUT XXX" but really heard no complaints from the Carbotechs. They're made to order direct from Carbotech Europe, but even then the turnaround was only a few days.

New discs and pads in:

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Gave the fluid a good flushing out too and replaced with RBF660. I've been a religious user of ATE200 (previously the blue stuff) for years but struggled to get it this time.

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The XP8's came with some quite specific bedding in instructions, no ambiguity here.

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I went for the procedure at 7am Sunday morning, roads a bit damp but it would do. After the first 4 braking events I started getting good vibes from them, really good bite in the first ~20% of pedal travel and then a nice solid feeling under foot until the ABS eagerly kicked in on the damp roads. Once I completed the prescribed 70-10 slows I settled in for a 15min 'moderately hard drive' and used the brakes a bit more normally and found them fantastic at intermediate pressure. I probably struggled to get them hot enough for bedding purposes, so I'll probably repeat this process when I next go out in the dry - but really impressed so far.

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Not a hint of squeal so far and the dust doesn't seem out of the ordinary. So far so good. :thumbup:
lotuslee
Posts: 330
Joined: Tue Feb 04, 2014 5:58 pm

Who supplied them ? I wonder if they do them for the 4 pots 🤔
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Fonzey
Posts: 1188
Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2018 12:17 am

Direct from Carbotech, and yes they will do the 4 pot fitment.

Been warned against them for a road only pad though, the pagids are probably better suited for that or maybe a ferrodo ds2500 or similar.
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Fonzey
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Waste not want not and all that!

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andybond
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Cracking clock!

I hope it doesnt brake down ..

( sorry couldnt stop myself. )
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Fonzey
Posts: 1188
Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2018 12:17 am

Remember this?

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Bracket thing from my throttlebody, as far as I can gather it had been broken for a long time - at least as long as I've owned the car so I took it off when adjusting my idle position a few weeks ago with the intention of sourcing a new one or getting it fixed. Sourcing a new one was a total dead end, as I can't find it on any parts diagrams or part number lists - so it must be included with the TB assembly itself rather than being a distinct part.

So thanks to a favour from a friend of a friend, I got it welded up instead.

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Quick blast with my grinder to clean it up a bit..

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...and a lick of paint, et Voila.

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It's still not exactly clear what purpose this serves... it's been broken for god knows how long, and I ran Croft without it fitted at all but it's back on now so I suppose I can sleep again at night.

Oh, I also reverted the tweak I made to the TB stopper position just because it was made redundant by the fact I can change the idle target in the ECU directly.
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Fonzey
Posts: 1188
Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2018 12:17 am

I think I made a boo-boo 18 months or so back...

I've been flicking through my ECU logs as you do on a mental Saturday night and realised that my oil pressure switch is always logging in the "pressure" position. It's not a granular sensor, so it's only got two readings.... "pressure" or "no pressure (dash light)". So when I crank the car, it immediately shows pressure the second the ECU has power, normally it would show no pressure and would flick itself to pressure after a crank or two of the engine.

I checked through the ECU inputs, compared against some pinout diagrams I found for the OEM ECU and decided everything looked fine, so then tried to think back to the last time I saw the oil warning light illuminate on the dash.... and I can't ever remember seeing it, at least not in the last few months or even year.

Within the EMU ECU I swapped the inputs around so it was reading the AC pressure switch instead, and immediately this lit up the oil warning light on the dash... so I know the cluster is working fine, and I know the signal from the ECU to the cluster is working fine... so perhaps it's my sensor/switch that's to blame.

That's when it dawned on me I may have cocked it up myself... back when I fitted by SPA gauge with a proper oil pressure sensor, I tee'd into the original oil pressure switch location with a remote T-Piece, pictured here:

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Thinking on, I'm 80% sure the OEM Oil pressure switch is a single wire jobby, meaning it needs to ground itself through the NPT threads into the block and I'm pretty sure I used PTFE tape when fitting the t-piece...

What's the betting that I insulated the bloody thing and it's never worked since I installed my SPA gauge over a year ago? :lol:

I can't be bothered removing it/checking it yet, I'll sort it when I get the oil changed next month before the car gets dismantled.... but what do are the thoughts on my theory? Sound viable?!
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